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 How to Waterproof your ATV...

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Bootlegger
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Joined : 2008-01-15
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Location : Crossville,TN

PostSubject: How to Waterproof your ATV...   Mon Apr 20, 2009 10:15 pm

This is a write up I did on Mudbog.net...Sooner from the site added the bottom part. This may help a few.

Quote :
I am going to try to cover the basics on how to waterproof your atv. Alot of people think snorkels is all you do. There are alot more things that needs to be done to ensure you don't cause damage to your ATV.

1. Snorkels, You need to snorkel your airbox. Then your CVT intake & exhaust if its an automatic. If its a maual shift your airbox is the only snorkel you will have.

2. Ventlines,There are numerous lines to run up to a higer location. You need to run your front & rear Differential lines up to a high location. The handle bars is where most run theirs too. There will be some ATV's that do not have a diff vent line but the little rubber slinky looking boot...thats ok to leave in place.
Next you have your radiator over flow line you can run up to a higer location as well.
On Carb model ATV's you will need to run your carb vent lines up to a high location.
Depending on the model and location of your fuel tank you will have to run your gas tank ventline up to a higher location.
Next is a very important vent line....its your CrankCase vent line. Most are ran into the airbox and if they are that is fine as long as your airbox is completely sealed up. I will get to that in a minute. If you wanna run your crank case vent line up do not forget to plug the hole in the airbox where it was. If you run the crank case line up I would suggest you put a tiny air filter on the end of the vent line to keep dust from entering your engine. Make sure this vent line is in a HIGH location cause you do not want water in the engine.

3. Airbox, make sure your airbox lid is sealed tight. I use some kind of gasket maker or RTV silicone to seal mine with. You want to make sure this is sealed tight. Also make sure the drain for your air box is sealed as well and nothing can get in from it. The airbox is very important.

4. Dielectric Grease, Put dielectric grease on every electrical connection. Fill your spark plug boots full everytime you take it off. This will not hurt anything use as much as you think is needed. Put it on all the fuses too. I put it on all the connectors that pull apart.


If i see anything I forgot to add I will put it in later on. I hope this helps some of you. If you have any questions please PM me and i will help all I can.

"This is just to help you understand and get an idea of what needs to be done to your ATV if you ride in deep water/mud." All of this is a must for deep water/mud riding. It will prevent alot of issues and keep your ATV in better condition for longer.

This is some more helpful info that Sooner has submitted to me. Its what you need to do if you do submerge your ATV in Deep Water.

First and foremost, do not run your ATV with water in the oil, not even a short distance. Also, if the engine doesn't want to turn over, do not push start it, it's probably hydro-locked.

1. Remove and clean/dry the air filter.
2. Remove the drain plugs for the air box and CVT
3. Drain the exhaust by tipping the ATV onto its back.
4. Remove the spark plug and crank the engine over to blow out the cylinder, reinstall plug (don't forget the dielectric grease).
5. Change the engine oil and filter.
6. Replace the air filter and drain plugs for the air box and CVT.
7. Start and bring the ATV up to operating temp.
8. Shut it down, let it sit for a few minutes and check for water in the oil again (oil will have a white'ish/grey tint to it).
9. If contaminated, repeat the oil change until clear (note: drain filter rather than replace).
10. check all the differentials for contamination and change the oil as required.
11. Blow out all your Vent Lines.....disconnect the vent line at both ends and blow them out with a decent amount of air pressure.
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